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NOVEMBER 2,
1867
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THE
FASHIONS—AFTER A FASHION. [Satire about Victorian Fashions]
| "...little as I know about
fashion, I am still known as a follower of the
latest styles. I followed one yesterday, for
instance, all the way from Bond Street to the
Croton Reservoir." |
THE judgment
displayed by the Bazar in selecting me to do its
fashion feuilleton can not be too highly commended.
For if there be one thing on earth about which I know
absolutely nothing, and for which I care a little less, that
one thing is feminine attire. This, of course, frees me from
every prejudice in the beginning, and loosens my pen for the
unbiased discussion of all that pertains to a lady's toilet.
However, little as I know about
fashion, I am still known as a follower of the latest
styles. I followed one yesterday, for instance, all the way
from Bond Street to the Croton Reservoir, where it suddenly
disappeared. Indeed, I have noticed most mysterious
disappearances among ladies in the vicinity of that same
Reservoir. Whether they slip in to pay their waterfall-tax,
or to come out again with their plain silks changed to
watered ones, I do not know. When my attention was first
attracted by the mystery, I determined to solve it by
careful watching, and did watch; but after keeping vigil for
several days I gave it up as a thankless task, only serving
to whet my curiosity still farther. But to return to our
millinery mutton.
[HAIRSTYLES]
Waterfalls are still worn. They have retrograded from the
position they at one time assumed, directly on the top of
the head, and now seem in a fair way far slipping down the
back a bit. Facilis descensus. For a time
considerable apprehension existed that the chignon in its
upward and onward course would encroach upon the forehead,
giving the fair wearers the unique appearance of the
unicorn, but this apprehension is happily dissipated. The
feminine nose is not to be made crinose, nor is the ball to
be forever up. Originally invented as a cushion for the
brain, the locality of that organ is plainly indicated by
the place of a lady's chignon. It is not considered ton
to wear it under the left ear, otherwise it may be disposed
of at pleasure. When not in actual use it serves an
excellent purpose in the nursery; the children can play ball
with it. Long may the waterfall wave and never may it waver!
Let the wild wags wag as they will, I hope that no lady can
be induced to go back on her back-hair.
[HATS]
As for bonnets, there are several styles. One worn by a
leading belle yesterday particularly attracted my attention.
I wish I knew where it was bought and what it is called, in
order to tell the reader where not to go, and what not to
get. The prettiest thing of the season, and undoubtedly
destined to be the favorite, is what is known as the "Marie
Antoinette"—most appropriately named after that most
unfortunate queen, who, having no head to speak of toward
the close of her reign, manifestly could not require much of
a bonnet. The "Marie Antoinette," being made of straws,
shows which way the wind blows in the fashionable world. It
has two elevations—one in front called the ''diadem," and
one at the back known as something else. There is some
difficulty in distinguishing the "diadem" from the other
thing, owing to the impossibility of telling the front of
the bonnet from the back. This doesn't matter much, however,
being rather an advantage than otherwise, inasmuch as a
husband can not tell which way his wife is going when she
puts on her things for a walk without asking her politely.
In this respect the bonnet is not unlike a Brooklyn
ferry-boat, though a better comparison, perhaps, might be
instituted between it and the shapely double-ender of our
navy. There are several other styles of bonnets, all of
about the same size. It is worthy of note that the smaller
they are the more they cost, which is encouraging to
milliners, and enables them to get ahead pretty fast. In its
present aspect the bonnet is but a waif; it will probably
get to be a wafer before the season is over. The adoption of
the wafer would undoubtedly be hailed with general delight,
being so easy of adjustment, and calculated to stick to the
head without the aid of strings. Moreover, would it not be
carrying out the spirit of the age to the letter?
[DRESS]
Skirts are worn short and scant for the street. This saves
material, and enables the careful mother to make aprons for
the children. Dresses for the evening are made with a long
trail, economically obtained by cutting a considerable
amount of dry goods away from the neck. There is no use in
burning your candle at both ends in times like these. Low on
a narrow neck, a dress can be made to stand, or rather to
set, to excellent advantage. As to the waist of the dress
that is in great measure a matter of taste. Haste makes
waste, it is said, but it is not claimed that a waist made
in haste is better than one deliberately fashioned. The
waist-knot is omitted unless the wearer wants knot, in which
case some remnants of ribbon and the first few things that
come handy are stuck on. As a general thing the waist should
he cut scant— waist-fulness seldom pleases the one whom a
woman should dress to please.
As to the bodice, that is
nobody's business. The souls and bodice of women are their
own, however the opponents of their rights may talk. As
regards that portion of her attire a lady can consult her
own comfort and convenience, staying as long as she pleases.
Of course it is impossible to handle all portions of a
lady's dress in detail, especially in a first attempt. Of
the bodice anon, or anonymously.
[OUTER GARMENTS]
The outer garments are of various styles. It is safe,
however, to predict that few box-coats will be worn by
ladies this winter; they had better be avoided, especially
when men are inside of them. The basque is a graceful
garment, and can be made of different materials. The sun is
not bad to bask in occasionally, nor are the smiles of a
young and comely gentleman, who owns a pair of horses and is
desirous of setting up a wife and carriage, to be sneezed
at. Should he not prove to be all your fancy painted
him—which is to say, should his income turn out to be not
lovely and divine—you can intimate very gently, but firmly,
that your basqueing days are done, and give him the sack. If
it be cut in the present fashion, he will see a great many
points—they can not escape his eye. Gazing, on the bugles
which adorn the garment he may assert that he'll be blowed
if he does not trumpet your faithlessness to the world; but
you can remark that he is at liberty to trump it or follow
suit, as he thinks best after which he will probably hold
his whist.
As for the tout ensemble
of your things, the more that they are cut up and slashed
about the edges the better, and the more you'll look like a
Chinese -which is the grand end and aim of woman's life this
season. The effect of the whole dress could be heightened by
a few of the red labels which come on tea-chests judiciously
displayed at tasteful intervals around the edge of the
balmoral. Looking so very mandarin none would for a moment
suppose that the wearer was afraid of a man.
After which I have only to
remark, that if any one has been amused by this article the
world is more foolish than I had imagined; and if any one
has been instructed the intention of the writer certainly
has not been carried out.
INIGO.
How To
Cite This Article:
"The Fashions -- After a Fashion", November 2, 1867
[electronic edition]. Harper's Bazaar, Nineteenth Century
Fashion Magazine,
http://harpersbazaar.victorian-ebooks.com (2005).
MORE INFO:
Fashion Print Timeline: See hand colored antique
Victorian fashion prints of Victorian dresses from 1850 to
1865.
Dressing Up- A Timeline of Victorian Clothing: View a
timeline of Victorian clothing.
Victorian and Edwardian Photographs:
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