|
NOVEMBER 2,
1867
________
|
NEW YORK FASHIONS.
IN this our introductory we
shall merely give a glance at the fashions in general as
they now prevail in New York. In future numbers we shall
narrate explicitly all the interesting details of a lady's
toilette, giving each week descriptions of the new and
beautiful garments fashioned by our leading modistes.
BONNETS.
To begin at the beginning,
with the bonnet, that most important article of feminine
dress, we have a decided change to record in the fall
shapes, and for the winter still greater novelties are
predicted. The "airy fairy" Fanchon, so long popular, is
gradually being deposed by a much more stately bonnet, more
in keeping with the picturesque costumes now worn. This
bonnet is called the Marie Antoinette. The name of that
unfortunate queen is given generally to the styles of the
last century about to be revived — a name so fraught with
interesting reminiscences that it will by mere association
lend an additional charm to the question always dear to the
feminine heart of "Wherewithal shall we be clothed?" The
Marie Antoinette bonnet, with all its variations of
Mousquetaire, Marquise, and Princess Caroline, has a narrow
brim, short ears, and a broad, flat crown without the least
semblance of a curtain. It is worn farther on the top and
front of the head than were the shapes of last season, and
fits closely over the chignon. Broad bandeaux of gilt or of
velvet, and wreaths of flowers, forming an elaborate diadem,
are placed over the forehead. This diadem is the most
noticeable characteristic of the new shapes, and this it is
that gives the stately appearance requisite. The strings are
also an important feature in the new chapeau. It has usually
two or three pairs of strings, intended for service as well
as ornament, as they are really required to hold the short
ears in proper position. The narrow ribbons that serve to
tie the bonnet at the throat are fringed or ornamented with
embroidery and lace. The over-strings are of real lace with
velvet ribbon insertion, or wide scarfs of colored tulle
beaded with jet and gilt or dew-dropped with crystal,
arranged in the Spanish fashion over the back of the bonnet.
The Fanchon still lingers with
us in a slightly changed form. It used to be a matter of
some doubt which was the front and which the rear of this
bonnet; but as now worn the Marie Stuart point still remains
in front, while the back is shorn of its point, being
entirely straight on the chignon.
The Trianon, a cross between the Fanchon and Marie
Antoinette, will be a favorite with those who dislike to be
the first by whom the new style is tried.
In trimmings there is great variety. Feathers are not so
much used as they will be later in the season. Flowers are
in profusion every where. Many bonnets are simply frames
covered with velvet heart's-ease or daisies. There are new
designs in flowers of gilt and velvet, and many novelties in
leaves and berries — wreaths of leaves of all the varied
shades of the autumn forest — metallic berries, bronzed,
red, and fire color, with clusters of golden wheat, grapes,
acorns, and thistles of downy marabouts. Gilt ornaments of
every description are in high favor; jet and pearl are used
abundantly; amber has disappeared. Ribbons are but little
used for trimming, and only in narrow widths. There are,
however, some pretty shaded and fringed ribbons very
effectively introduced as scarfs on the new bonnets.
In round hats white felt is the favorite material. Bronzed
straws are worn with Bismarck suits. It is useless to name a
hat, as each milliner has a different name of her own. One
pretty style has a shallow crown and narrow brim; another
has a half high crown and turned up brim. Wreaths of leaves
and bandeaux of shirred velvet, with a rosette or an
aigrette at the side, are the trimmings. Ostrich feathers
and willow plumes are too large for these tiny chapeaux, and
are superseded by small tufts of marabout and cock's
feathers.
DRESSES.
The picturesque gored dress
continues to be the approved style. This is not only a
graceful but a sensible fashion, as it does away with the
absurd practice of gathering into a few inches at the waist
the same quantity of material that is made to cover a large
space on the floor.
THE CORSAGE.
There is a return to the short
waists of the "Empire." The corsage is short on the shoulder
and under the arm, and rounded at the waist to be worn with
a wide belt. Small reversed collars are worn with
chemisettes half high at the throat. Many dresses are cut
away square a la Pompadour, but the high standing
collar vandyked or scalloped and bound to match the trimming
on sleeves and skirt is more stylish. For evening dress the
neck is cut square and very low indeed.
The Marie Antoinette fichu,
which crosses in front of the corsage and falls into long
rounded streamers tied negligently at the back, is made of
the same material as the dress, and is decidedly an
ornamental addition. Waist-belts are wide and much trimmed
with tasseled fringe and jet pendants. Wide sashes of lace
or ribbon are tied behind in a large bow.
SLEEVES.
Coat sleeves are still worn
and are gradually narrowing to the tight sleeve of the
Empire. Flowing sleeves are only suitable for full dress. In
their proper sphere they are graceful and becoming, but are
in bad taste for home dress, where comfort and convenience
are the great consideration. They are cut quite short on the
forearm, sloping gradually away to a point at the back and
are very much trimmed inside. Puffs and caps at the top of
the coat sleeves are but little used.
SKIRTS.
Gored skirts are made with
long trains for full dress. They are gored to fit plain in
front and at the sides; but the two back widths are left
entire and plaited or gathered in at the waist in order to
give the proper fullness to the train. In very long trains
these back widths are sometimes cut off square to prevent
them from curling up as pointed trains are apt to do. The
front and sides are quite short — gradually sloping longer
toward the back, giving a graceful sweep to the train. When
two skirts are used the upper one is looped up at the sides
or caught up in a loose knot behind, a la benoiton.
Indoor dresses for demi-toilette
have plain gored skirts just long enough to escape the
floor.
WALKINGS DRESSES.
Short dresses for walking have
become indispensable articles in a lady's wardrobe. Short
enough to escape the rubbish on the sidewalk, yet
sufficiently long to be modest, they relieve the hands of
the onerous task of holding up voluminous skirts, and
dispense with the trouble of looping, and are withal so trim
and jaunty that they would have found their way into favor
had there been nothing to commend them on the score of
availability. The double skirt, always popular in Paris, has
found a rival here in single skirts with trimming arranged
to simulate an upper skirt. The handsomest designs are the
costumes in two colors — the embroidered petticoat of blue,
green, or Bismarck, with black pardessus over it — a
combination of the Swiss peasant bodice and peplum.
SACQUES AND PALETOTS.
Short paletots are worn with
walking dresses, and are variations of last winter's styles.
The mantilla paletot has long lappets in front resembling a
mantle, but the back is straight and short. A long loose
sacque called the Gabrielle is worn with suits. It reaches
to the knee, and is confined at the waist by a wide belt
fastened behind with a large bow and ends. A tight-fitting
pelisse with cape is also worn.
THE BRETON JACKET.
The Breton Jacket introduced
last season is, mirabile dictu, still a favorite. It
is a piquante little garment specially intended for
morning wear, made of scarlet, black, or blue cloth
embroidered in bright colors. Jet and gilt beads and tinsel
braid are also introduced into the trimming. It was this
coquettish little garment that first brought about the rage
for colored embroidery which is now so universal.
COLORS.
Bismarck, or gold-brown, is
the prevailing shade, and reappears in some guise almost
every where. The new shades of green are its only formidable
rivals. The deep green known as Invisible, now called
“Mermaid,” is in great favor. There are a variety of lighter
shades for evening wear — yellowish greens, prettier than
one would imagine — and really beautiful by gaslight —
these are “Pistache,” “Frog,” “Butter,” “Chou,”
cabbage — names certainly not very attractive in the
abstract, but which will on examination commend themselves
as perfectly appropriate.
DRESS GOODS
Silks are either brocaded or
embroidered by hand. Decided contrast is the rule in
brocades. Black and Bismarck grounds are strewn with flowers
of brilliant hues — half-blown roses, heather-bells,
daisies, and convolvulus; autumn leaves are scattered on a
Marie Louise blue; gilt and blue figures on a white ground,
and a white or amber design on black.
Handsomer and more expensive
than the brocades are the embroidered robes. Heavy corded
silks, Bismarck or black grounds, are worked with the needle
on the front, back, and two side breadths, in pyramids of
flowers, so beautiful and lifelike that a perfume is only
needed to persuade one that they are real.
POULT DE SOIE ANTIQUE.
In plain colors there is a
novelty called poult de soie antique, a thick corded
silk with the lustre of satin. This is brought out in the
quaint old colors worn by our grandmothers — blue-black,
dead-brown, invisible-green, or mermaid, and of course the
inevitable Bismarck. The quiet colors of this elegant
material make it particularly desirable for handsome walking
dresses.
THE CHAMELEON.
An appropriate name for
another novelty is the chameleon, a revival of the
changeable silks, that take new tints in different lights.
The combinations of color in these silks is most exquisite,
and the ingenious French, with their talent for
nomenclature, have given them separate cognomens, viz.:
"Sunrise," a pearly gray combined with rose color; “
Sunset,” a golden hue in one light, purple and azure in
another; and a "Moonlight," whose glimmering is too
intangible to admit of description.
Among other new fabrics is the
magnificent "Antwerp" silk, thick enough to stand alone, a
yard and a half wide, and worth the price asked for it —
twenty-five dollars per yard. Another novelty is Holland
satin, a reversible material, satin upon one side and silk
on the other. Drap de la Reine is corded diagonally
on one surface only.
WOOLENS.
In woolen goods brown and
Russian gray predominate. Merchants say they are selling ten
pieces of Bismarck to one of any other color. There has been
imported a larger assortment of bright plaids than at any
previous season. Knotted velours, with a raised white dash,
are pretty and durable, and are sold at two dollars and a
half a yard. Shaded velours are a welcome change from the
plain velours so long worn. Empress cloth is brought out in
Cashmere patterns, and is preferable to the real Cashmere,
as it is thicker and warmer. A new article of twilled winsey,
a mixed gray and black, is well adapted to walking suits, as
it is perfectly waterproof. Blue serge, and gold color with
black, are much admired.
There is considerable variety
in poplins. The chene is in grave shades of purple,
green, and brown with white, while the plaids are in every
color of the rainbow. In solid colors there is a French
poplin that many consider superior to Pym's best Irish; it
has smoother threads, is softer, and falls into more
graceful folds.
TRIMMINGS.
Cross cut folds of satin with
a heading of lace, or a narrow piping of the material of the
dress placed in the centre, is a fashionable trimming. These
folds are put on straight with pointed leaves at intervals
on either side. Pipings of silk are braided together an inch
in width. Van-dyked and castellated points of silk neatly
bound are sewn around sacques and on sleeves. Elegant jet
fringes and gimp are among the novelties. Amber has
disappeared, but gold ornaments are used profusely.
Embroidery is, however, the ruling passion of the hour. The
Oriental patterns are in all colors. The work is beautifully
executed, and the colors selected with artistic skill, yet
the effect is not good. A French mixture of crochet work and
embroidery in fine jet and black silk, or in silk of any one
shade, is in better taste. The eye will follow the fashion,
and we shall in time probably come to admire the brilliant
variety of colors, but at present it is a little too
prononcee to meet with approval.
CRINOLINE.
Crinoline has grown
beautifully less until it is as small as can possibly be
worn. The standard skirt for ordinary toilette measures only
two yards round the bottom, and those for ceremonious
occasions, only three yards, which, of course, affords but
little assistance in managing a train.
Under-skirts, even those of fine muslin, should be gored.
Any gathers about the hips spoil the effect of the gored
dress. The Boulevard skirt, made of felt, entirely seamless
and shaped on a frame, is an improvement on the full
balmoral.
CLOAKS.
It is rather early to say
which of the many designs in cloaks will meet the most
favor, but it is positively known that all are to be longer
and looser than those of last year. In many imported cloaks
the added length is entirely confined to the front. The long
tabs and points that reach almost to the floor in front
slope upward in the back until they barely conceal the
waist. This is another innovation which looks exceedingly
grotesque now, but to which time will probably reconcile us.
Tufted cloths are not so popular as they were last winter,
and have given place to smooth surfaces on which immense
quantities of trimming are lavished. The favorite colors are
black, brown, and purple; gray has lost favor. Cloth is
trimmed with a heavy silk braid, varying from an eighth of
an inch to an inch and a half in width. Velvet is profusely
ornamented with embroidery and lace. Very few circulars are
imported — the gored sacque with flowing sleeves being the
genus of which there are innumerable species.
LACES.
A love for beautiful laces is
becoming a mania with ladies nowadays. Nothing tells more in
a lady’s costume than the lace she wears: let that be
inferior, and the richest velvets and jewels will not shield
her from criticism; while real lace, of no matter how small
a quantity, gives a better tone to the most ordinary
material. Point Gaze, the handsomest of all laces, is
beautifully brought out in patterns of fern-leaves and
medallions. The Point Gaze for a trousseau, consisting of a
flounce for the bridal dress, with narrower lace for
garniture, a shawl, fan, and parasol-cover, and long barb,
all woven in the same exquisite pattern, is marked at two
thousand dollars. A Point mantle, quite large, yet of such
gossamer texture that it might be drawn through a
finger-ring, had two hundred medallions, each of a different
pattern. The price of this beautiful work of art is
twenty-five hundred dollars. A parasol of Point d'Alencon,
with pearl stem and coral handle, is marked six hundred
dollars.
The Shakespeare style is most
popular for collars of fine lace. Standing collars,
embroidered in Vandykes and edged with Valenciennes, are
pretty and stylish. A small chemisette, worn inside the
dress, is attached to hold them in position.
Veils of real lace are small
and square, with the lower edge deeply pointed. Long barbes
are tied at the back with bow and streamers, or merely
fastened with ornaments of jet or pearl
GLOVES.
Gloves are longer at the wrist, and ornamented on the back
with embroidered crests and ciphers in contrasting colors,
and stitching in a Grecian pattern. Substantial studs and
hooks are used as fastenings, but the handsomest are drawn
together by tasseled tirettes. Tiny eyelets of gilt or
silver are laced together on the back of the glove by a silk
cord with tassels. Etna and Vesuvius browns—redder tints
than Bismarck, are the favorite shades. White gloves,
hitherto so plain, are ornamented with tirettes and tassels
to match the lacing on the back. Gloves intended for evening
wear extend half way to the elbow, and are fastened with
several studs.
PRICES.
There is not the general
declension in prices that was anticipated. Silks remain at
the high figures demanded in war times, and with the present
enormous rates of duty there is little prospect of a change.
A disease among the silk-worms of China and Japan has also
materially affected the silk crop. Woolen goods vary but
little from the usual standard. Domestics have decreased in
price, almost reaching the low figures of the ante-war
times.
How To
Cite This Article:
"New York Fashions", November 2, 1867
[electronic edition]. Harper's Bazaar, Nineteenth Century
Fashion Magazine,
http://harpersbazaar.victorian-ebooks.com (2005).
MORE INFO:
Dressing Up- A Timeline of Victorian Clothing: View a
timeline of Victorian clothing.
Queen Alexandra's Shoes: Silk shoes worn by, then,
Princess Alexandra in the 1860s. Part of HM Queen
Alexandra's trousseau.
Dating Portraits, Clothing Styles
|
|
